A Life of Travel | Split, Croatia

Over the years I’ve been lucky to travel to Croatia multiple times, and am always asked where to go. The first place that pops into my mind is ALWAYS Split! Many will ask why. “Yes it’s a beautiful town, but surely 1-2 days will suffice,” is the usual reply. But here’s the secret. Split is magical. It’s depth of culture, history, tradition, oozes out of every cobblestone, every side street, every beautifully cracked monument.

If you spend all of your time in Diocletians Palace, you will not get to the heart and soul of Split.

Rent a bicycle, or put on your walking shoes. Head north into Marjan park to some of Croatia’s most stunning beaches.

Wander south-east past the Baba’s (Grandmothers) with their home grown tomatoes and get lost in the old streets. Pop into the garden bars and listen to the innumerable stories of times gone by with the local Rakija or Slive.

As the sun sets walk down the promedade, sit amongst the flowers overlooking this picturesque port town, and admire the reflections in the off-white stone. Breathe deeply and watch as young and old, local and tourist meander by on this balmy eventing.

Wander to the end of the promenade (towards Marjan park) and join the queue for Fife restaurant. You’ll likely be sat on a table with others, but the food has been cooked the same delicious way for over 20 years. From recipes passed down from mother to daughter. Try the Sarma, the Punjene Paprike and as much seafood as possible. Go back the next night for the Pašticada.

Split is a lifetime affair. Once you’ve been, you’ll want to go back, and each time you do – you’ll peel of another layer, just enough to keep you entranced, intoxicated.

Volim te Split. Hvala.

The one thing not to miss: Kašjuni Beach.

BEST TIME OF YEAR: May - September

RECOMMENDED NUMBER OF DAYS TO STAY:

4-6 nights

HOW TO GET THERE: Split has an airport (approximately 45min bus from the town). Note that bus schedules change as often as daily (to meet flights), so make sure you have plenty of time if youre going to get a flight!

There are connections by bus to Dubrovnik, Mostar (Bosnia), Zagreb and other Croatian towns 2+ times per day. Ferries & Catamarans connect you to local Islands, and to mainland ports as far south as Dubrovnik and as far north as Rijeka.

NEARBY ACTIVITIES (Up to one day trip):

Krka Waterfalls: Approximately 1.5 hour drive by bus, there are plenty of companies that offer day tours (or you can catch a local bus). Stunning waterfalls - that you can swim in - and plenty of grassy areas in which you can relax with a picnic. There are some small shops offering coffee, small bites, palacinke (pancakes) and beer. Price is 110/150 Kuna per adult entry (depending on season).
www.np-krka.hr/en/

TOP 3 TIPS FOR SPLIT

Rent a bike, ride to Marjan Park for sunset, visit beaches nestled in the base of Marjan Park. Far less crowded, and in pristine condition!
Explore outside the old town - visit old neighbourhoods
Eat ice-cream. You'll see. Just eat the ice-cream!

FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER: The beaches and buildings built into the stone on the climb up to the top of Marjan Park. Especially in the golden hours.

What to do:
Top Beaches:

Kašjuni is my top pick. You'll reach if from the road into Marjan Park. Its stony, but with crystal clear water it's absolutely idyllic (See pics!). You'll find mostly locals here. Recently a beach bar (Joe's) has opened up too. Parking is available.
Bacvice is the most popular beach. It's very close to the old town, and is sandy. Shallow waters and lots of bars / restaurants / clubs make it popular with tourists and a young crowd. Always crowded!!
Trstenik: Fine pebble beach, furthest south of Split town centre. It's a long, family friendly beach with plenty of water sport activities on offer!

Marjan Hill: Marjan Park (Hill) is to the north of Split. It's easily accessible by car, bike or hike - all of which is well laid out! It will take you a couple of hours to walk, if you include taking in all the sights along the way. If it's hot please remember to take plenty of water. Aside from lovely beaches to cool off in on the way past, once you begin the climb you have some spectacular views not only of Split but of the islands nearby. With benches built in every hundred metres or so, I highly recommened regualar stops to appreciate your surroundings. Built deep into the stone are several buildings - see St Jeromes Church (pictured >), and you will adore the sunset from the top! If you take the time you will also notice the small things - such as locals houses hidden between the trees with healthy vegetable patches!

Adventure Sports:
Split is an epicentre for adventure sports! Choices include:

Canyoning
Kayaking (Sea and River)
White Water Rafting (Grade 2 - 3)
River Tubing
Rock Climbing
Kitesurfing
Sailing
Scuba / Snorkelling
even Paintballing!

PRO TIP: Rent a boat and explore the less crowded & less accessible beaches around Split; or visit nearby islands. You won't regret it!

The Old Town:

Diocletian's Palace and the Old Town is spectacular. It's still used / lived in for the most part, and you'll absolutely love the views from the Bell Tower, and the coolness from the underground markets (perfect for souvineers). There are some wonderful museums on offer including the Archeological Museum & the Ethnographic Museum
Exploring the restaurants and bars - understandably a must. In the maze of streets you'll find endless options for places to sate your hunger and quench your thirst. Almost everything is al fresco, which is superb for people watching. There are some clubs in the Old Town, but more clubs are located by the Barvice Beach.
Art Galleries: Mestrovic Gallery was designed by the Croatian artist himself, and is delightful to visit if you have an interest in Sculptures and Oil Paintings. Art Gallery Split exhibits famous Croatian & international artists including the works of Durer, Bukovac or Schiele. You will often find contemporary Croatian art here too.
Markets: I don't know about you, but I absolutely love visiting markets. Split has two active markets, that are absolutely the soul of the city. Visit the seafood market and haggle for the catch of teh day, or for a truely cultural experience, visit the fruit & vegetable market on the edge of the Riva (Split's Waterfront Promenade). Here, aside from the ususal suspects, you'll find honey, delicious baked goods and practical items like sea shoes (so that the stones don't hurt your feet). The sense of Split's community comes through here as everyone clearly knows each other - stopping for a chat or a cup of strong coffee.
The Riva (promenade) is a highlight. It's purpose built, and a beautiful place to while away the hours. You can't miss it.

Where to stay:

**Split is still very much a 'Sobe' town ('rooms'). If you're looking for budget, you'll find much better options in wonderful locations in Sobe than in hostels/small hotels.**

Budget: Sobe (try Air B'n'b) HRK 280 per room

Mid-range: Hotel Luxe HRK 550 per room

Luxury: Hotel Marmont or Palace Judita Heritage Hotel approx HRK 1800/ night

BASIC PRICE GUIDE (as of SEPT 2016)

Traditional Meal for Two: 80 HRK

Glass / Bottle Wine: 60 - 100 HRK

Local beer (restaurant): 0.5L 20 HRK

Local beer (supermarket): 0.5L 10 HRK

Rakija/ Slivovitce (30ml): 15 HRK

Cocktail: 25- 40 HRK

Local Bus ticket: 10 HRK

Bike Rental: The best we found was at "Baracuda Fishing" at Trumbićeva obala 12. 70 HRK per day

RESTAURANT TIP: I've already mentioned it, but if you're after local food, Tavern Fife is a must. Don't expect 5 star service, and especially in summer get there early to avoid long queues. But the food is cheap and delicious. Dalmatian specialty, with a few hearty Croatian favourites thrown in for good measure (e.g. Goulash & Sarma).